Immediately engaging: crushed berry, smoke, and a compelling cured meat/ fresh leather note; also a spicy, bright, dried herb character, like Indian bay or curry leaf.
Fresh, full, firm, with succulent berry fruit, but implosive structure. Neither vague nor sweet. Long, staunch finish, with alternating tranches of fruit, spice, and tannin. Something soothing but stalwart here, surprising in a year elsewhere prone to superficiality or glibness: testimony to talented growers working a gifted site.